The Submariner in Seven References: A Short History

The Rolex Submariner has looked roughly the same for seventy years, which is exactly why collectors obsess over the small changes. Here's the story told through seven references worth knowing, whether you're shopping pre-owned on Jewelers Row or waiting on a new one in Oak Brook.

1. Ref. 6204 (1953): The beginning

The first Submariner arrived in 1953, built as a tool for the new sport of recreational scuba. It was rated to 100 meters, had a rotating bezel for timing a dive, and no crown guards. Small, simple and very rare today.

2. Ref. 6538 (mid-1950s): The "Big Crown"

An oversized winding crown made it easier to operate with cold or gloved hands, and depth rating climbed. This is the reference Sean Connery wore as James Bond in Dr. No (1962), which did more for the Submariner's fame than any ad campaign.

3. Ref. 5512 and 5513 (1959 onward): Crown guards arrive

Rolex added crown guards: the two shoulders that protect the crown from knocks. The 5513 in particular had an extraordinarily long production run and is one of the most common vintage Submariners you'll find at a pre-owned dealer.

4. Ref. 1680 (1969): The first date

The Submariner Date debuted, adding the date window and the Cyclops magnifier. From here on, the line split into two families: no-date and date. That split still defines your buying decision today.

5. Ref. 16610 (late 1980s–2010): The modern classic

Sapphire crystal, 300 meters of water resistance, and the proportions most people picture when they think "Submariner." Huge production numbers make the 16610 one of the most approachable pre-owned Subs.

6. Ref. 116610LN (2010–2020): Ceramic and the "Maxi" case

Rolex swapped the aluminum bezel insert for scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic, beefed up the case lugs, and gave the dial larger hour markers. Divisive at launch; widely loved now.

7. Refs. 124060 and 126610LN (2020–today): 41mm

The current generation grew to 41mm with slimmer lugs and new in-house calibers (3230 in the no-date, 3235 in the date). These are the references you'll be asking for at any of Chicagoland's seven official Rolex retailers.

Where to see them in person: current references at the official retailers, and the older ones at our pre-owned and vintage dealers.